When all the sash pins are set below the surface,the clamps can be removed and put away.  If you wish, fill in the nail holes with wood filler.  After the wood filler is dry, plane the surface of the joint with a block plane until the faces of the stiles and rails are flush.  If no plane is available, Use a flat block of wood wrapped with 80-grit sandpaper to level the joints.  Sand the joints with a circular motion until the joints are level.

Cut off the tenons flush with the outside edge of the stiles with a handsaw or backsaw.  Plane or sand the tenons flush if necessary.

Next, using a small square, scribe the stiles even with the outside edges of the top and bottom rails with a sharp utility knife.  Scribe both the inside and outside faces of the sash as well as the edges. If you have an adjustable bevel square, set it to match the bevel of the bottom rail, and use it to establish the scribe line on the edge of the bottom end of the stile. Using a handsaw, cut the horns off of the stiles up to the scribed lines, cutting on the waste side of the line.  Use a block plane or sanding block if necessary to clean up the ends of the stiles, so that they are flush with the rails.

Sand the exterior and interior faces of the sash with an electric sander or sanding block using 100-grit sand paper, until smooth.

Using the block plane or sanding block, ease the edges of the sash slightly.  This step can be skipped until after the sash are fitted to the window frame, if desired.

Our standard K-D sash are made from Spanish cedar, which is a naturally decay-resistant wood that does not require any wood-preservative treatment.  After your sash are trimmed and sanded, they can be glazed or fitted to the window frame first and then glazed, whichever you prefer.